Post-flight food

I know I’m not alone in craving vegetables or salad when I get back from a trip. Sunday night, when we returned home from my dear friend Rayne’s wedding in Aruba, we really needed vegetables. I scoured the fridge, found a fading bunch of arugula, and then we went to grab a few more elements for an easy meal.

I ended up with:
1 pint grape tomatoes
8 bocconcini (mozzarella balls)
Prosciutto
Ciabatta
The arugula from the fridge


I cut up the tomatoes and smushed them with my hands in a dressing of olive oil, salt, pepper and a splash each of red wine and cider vinegar (I’m out of sherry vinegar, which I prefer). Then I chopped the arugula finely and mixed that in, and let it sit for 20 minutes.

I oiled the bread and browned it in the toaster oven, then mashed the vegetables onto it, and topped with the mozzarella and a twist of prosciutto on each piece.

This isn’t really cooking—too simple. But it was one of the most enjoyable things I’ve eaten in a while. The vinegar gave a nice tang to complement the tomatoes and the peppery arugula, the cheese was creamy, and the prosciutto added salt and savory. Next time I’ll use regular tomatoes and chop them up smaller, to make it easier to eat.

Best of all there was just enough left over for me to eat for lunch on Monday!

As for the trip, here I am with the groom, quite overheated, at the reception:

We met in a high school journalism class 13 years ago–unbelievable!

And earlier with Ben:

The backdrop to the ceremony:

CSA week 4: Rendezvous Meatballs, meatball-free

Let’s move past that sad pesto, shall we?

The goods:

-Kale
-Mesclun
-Iceberg lettuce
-Sage
-Sugar snap peas
-Cucumbers
-Zucchini
-Weekly eggs

My favorite restaurant in the neighborhood is Rendezvous in Central Square. It’s in a converted Burger King, but it’s just the perfect New American/seasonal kind of place, with great food and fantastic servers. The one downside is that they’ve priced everything just a tad too high for it to be the “we’re regulars” neighborhood joint that the decor and level of formality convey.

Anyway, Rendezvous famously serves a meatball dish (one that the chef has tried to take off the menu but ended up having to reinstate, I’m sure due to people like me calling in and saying “and when we’re there, could we get a few orders of the veal meatballs?”), described as follows: “Braised pork and veal meatballs with toasted orecchiette, maitakes and piave cheese.” We ordered them on our first visit, ages ago, and since then I’ve only ordered something else once, because once someone says “Let’s go to Rendezvous,” I start daydreaming about veal broth.

This dish is heaven. Forget the meatballs, which are great but—in my not-so-humble opinion—the merest decoration. A sideshow, if you will. The mushrooms vary by season but are always divine. The cheese adds a note of sharpness, as do the greens, which are also tossed with the toasted orecchiette. The toasted pasta gives another layer of texture and flavor, instead of just being a backdrop. And the whole thing sits in a pool of broth that cannot be described in words. I’m sure it is the result of restaurant resources, in the form of veal stock and AGES to cook it down, but it’s the kind of broth that you have to hold back from licking out of the bottom of the bowl. I do not, however, hold back from mopping it up with bread.

Ahem.

This dish, it is amazing. And last week I got kale in the CSA and I had very little else in the house aside from frozen pancetta and a bit of cheese and a box of….orecchiette! So I decided to make a Weeknight Tribute To the Best Pasta Ever.

I started by cooking the pancetta in a sacepan. I removed that to drain, and cooked my kale, making it very garlicky and starting with the chopped stems a while before adding the leaves.

(Nature’s colors are always so perfect:)

I asked Ben to pick up fresh mushrooms, and he brought home a dozen nice cremini. (Meanwhile I had also soaked a bunch of dried porcini in boiling water; I bought a cheap bag somewhere and it’s impossible to get the grit out of them but they’re good for making broth.)

When the kale was cooked, I put it aside and put chicken broth, the mushroom broth, halved garlic cloves and a bit of the pancetta in the same pot to cook down while I finished everything else off. Oh, I also boiled the pasta.

(Twirling contents in the broth)

In my large nonstick pan, I sautéed the mushrooms:

Dumped those on the cutting board with the kale and got to work toasting the pasta, which takes longer than you’d expect (I actually didn’t take it as far as I could have.)

When the pasta was toasty (again, it wasn’t toasty enough), I put the mushrooms and kale back in, tossed it all together, plated it with a ladle or two of the broth, and topped it with pancetta and parmesan.

Not. Half. Bad. I certainly wolfed mine down fast. Considering that I was using cremini mushrooms, and Swanson’s Low Sodium chicken broth (doctored up) instead of some kind of amazing veal reduction, I was pretty impressed. Will make again.

But Rendezvous? I love you. Please start serving the pasta-only version of the meatball dish. It’s almost my birthday, you could make it my present. xo!

I’m off to Aruba for the wedding of a dear, dear friend! I had a long sundress and dangly earrings. I’ll be back briefly next week, and then off again for some New England Jaunting with my parents. Want a preview of the things I haven’t posted yet (and some that I have)? I finally started using Flickr instead of Picasa for my blog pics, and you can find all my fancy new sets here. Also enjoy some of my all-time favorite photos, the blurry pictures of the signs my nutty and ancient Brooklyn landlord festooned around our building. “Major” use of “inappropriate” punctuation “on those.” (FYI, when he says “Silent-Alarm” he means “high decibal buzzing sound whenever the bolt is unlocked, audible from anywhere in the building.”)

CSA week 3: Questionable “pesto” decisions

Week 3:

-Lettuce
-Mesclun
-Strawberries
-Beets
-Scallions
-Dill
-Summer squash
-Weekly eggs

I still had the garlic scapes from the previous week hanging around in the crisper, and the greens from this week’s beets were so lovely that I wanted to use them before they wilted. And here, for your eye-rolling pleasure, is where my thought process went: Everyone is making scape pesto this year. Scape pesto is delicious. I don’t have enough scapes to make very much pesto. I will bulk up my pesto with beet greens! I am a genius!

Yeah. This wasn’t a total disaster, but it wasn’t the invention of the best new thing ever, either. I took my lovely, lovely beet greens:

Blanched them, squeezed the water out, and blended them with the chopped up scapes and a bit of oil…

And toasted walnuts and feta (no parmesan in the house, somehow) and more oil, and it turned brown:

Mmm, appetizing! It wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t thrilling, either. It lacked zip. I should have added in some garlic.

I sliced up summer squash and zucchini and sauteed those, along with sausage, and mixed it all with pasta for a rather brown and bland and dry meal. Maybe I didn’t add enough oil to the pesto?

Pretty squash!

Ooh, pasta in a pan!

What? Oh, you want to see the actual results? Well FINE.

Blaaaargh. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

And of course I ended up with LOADS of the stuff, which I froze in a muffin tin before transferring to a ziplock. Maybe I’ll add a bit to the israeli cous-cous I’m making tonight.

I wish I’d just made a mini batch of plain scape pesto. Lesson learned!

Steak salads for the long weekend

If anyone reading is also a CSA-subscriber, you know how much salad needs to be consumed this month to avoid a total fridge-takeover. I thought I’d post two versions of steak salad that I’ve made in the last month or so, as possible alternatives if you’re not feeling the burgers for Saturday.

Option One: Asian flavors

I generally avoid Rachael Ray (that voice), but I saw a tip once on her show about storing ginger, already peeled and ready to grate, in the freezer. Seemed smart, and when I decided to make a ginger marinade for the last of the Gift Steaks I gave it a shot.

Frozen ginger is really, really hard. I used a small grater, and the shavings were practically dust, which actually was brilliant in salad dressing since there were no chunks of ginger–it sort of dissolved into the dressing. For the marinade I could have used a bit more heft to the gratings. The other good thing, though, is that the strings in the ginger grate nicely when it is frozen, so you don’t have quite the same fiber struggle to contend with.

Anyway, I grated a lot of ginger into a bowl with soy sauce, a pinch of sugar, some sesame oil, toasted sesame seeds, and a bit of chili paste, and marinated the steak in that.

While the meat was marinating, I shaved a head of kohlrabi and a couple radishes into a similar dressing, but with some rice vinegar, no ginger, and a bit less soy.

Finally, I made a third version of the dressing with lots of the ginger and no soy sauce, just rice wine vinegar, sesame oil, peanut oil, etc. I used that to dress a huge salad, then topped it with the kohlrabi/radishes and the grilled, sliced steak:

steak salad

Option Two: Mom’s marinade
This week we were hosting Ben’s uncle for a couple days, and there was a providential break in the weather for just long enough to eat out on the porch!! I marinated flank steak using a recipe from my mom, and served it with the german-style potato salad I made a few times last year.

Rosemary-Mustard Flank Steak Marinade for 3 lbs. flank steak
From the White Dog Café Cookbook, via Kate’s mom

(K’s Mom: “I usually halve this recipe for a 1.5 lb. flank steak; plenty to feed 4-6.” I made the whole thing and froze half, see below. Also, Mom says that while the soy seems odd with these ingredients, it’s just adding umami and you don’t taste it in the end. She’s right.)

¼ Cup Dijon Mustard
2 shallots, chopped
½ Jalapeno pepper, seeded (I used chili paste, Mom uses red pepper flakes.)
2 Tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves
2 Tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¾ Cup olive oil

* Combine mustard, shallots, jalapeno, rosemary, soy sauce, and pepper in a food processor.
* Blend to a smooth paste, about 1 minute.
* With the motor running, slowly pour in the oil to form a thick emulsion.
(Note: this marinade can be made up to a week ahead & refrigerated.)
* Rub the meat with the marinade and place in a shallow baking dish.
* Cover with plastic wrap & refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 2 days. (I only had about 6-7 hours and while the result was good, it would have been better with overnight marinating!) The texture of flank steak benefits from long marinating.
* Grill or broil the steak until medium-rare, about 5 minutes on a side.
* Let rest 5 minutes before cutting on the bias and serving.

I used the little mini-prep attachment for my stick blender, which worked great, though I had to add the oil in batches instead of trickling it in.

Here is half the marinade doing its thing, while the other half prepares to go in the freezer for next time! Now the marinating-a-day-in-advance thing will be super easy.

Closer to dinner time, I cut up new potatoes and boiled them until they were tender but not crumbling.

I drained them and put them back in the pot, covered, to rest for a few minutes, then mixed them with a cider vinegar/olive oil dressing. In the dressing I mashed up a couple cloves of garlic that I’d boiled with the potatoes.

In the past, like an idiot, I’d boiled the potatoes whole and then cut them up while they were hot. Ouch. This worked way better; you do want to get the potatoes into the dressing hot so they soak it in better. Do this a little while (at least 30 minutes) before you eat, and keep stirring/tasting the potatoes, letting them all get a chance to soak up dressing. You’ll need to adjust the dressing and the seasoning to taste.

I’ve also been on a crouton kick lately, tearing up ciabatta and rubbing it into olive oil and salt, then baking it. I over-baked them this time but they are still so easy and SO delicious, especially if they are a little soft/chewy inside.

We had the salad and croutons under the steak, so the croutons got hit with the dressing and the steak juices, and had the potatoes on the side. Delicious and simple.

I hope you all have lovely long weekends! This charming little guy joins me in wishing you well:

CSA week 2: Savory (if unseasonable) risotto with chard

Oh, what a couple of weeks it has been. I will try to post several times in quick succession to get caught up… Meanwhile, let us travel back in time to mid-June, when the second CSA pickup of the season graced us with:

csa

-1 bunch rainbow chard
-Parsley
-Garlic scapes
-Kohlrabi
-Lettuce
-Mesclun
-Strawberries
-Weekly eggs

It’s been funny to watch the internet suddenly take on scapes and kohlrabi over the last month, with the explosion of CSAs exposing so many more people to them!

Since we have had a month of cool rainy weather, I’ve been treating most of these spring vegetables to wintery applications. The chard was no exception; I had some cooked sausage ready to go, so I made a nice easy risotto (my former-go-to meal, and one that I had sort of forgotten about this winter).

I found it incredibly soothing to stand over the stove, stirring the dry vermouth (which I sub in for white wine) into the onion and arborio; adding the broth and eventually the chard and feeling the warmth of the steam.

And what is better than sitting down to something that simple and warm and savory? I’d probably choose risotto over brownies most days.

But then, I’m a person who chooses garlicky kale over chocolate chip cookies, so maybe I’m not to be trusted.


BTW, I’m struggling with photo hosting problems and thinking it’s finally time to fork over for a Flickr Pro account. I’ve maxed out Picasa and I don’t like how it sizes my photos, anyway. I’ll post what I have already uploaded but then I have to figure out a solution.
EDITED: Guess what I got as an early b-day present? Flickr Pro it is! Thanks, M&D!!

Floral bounty

Oh dear…I am down and out with the worst cold I’ve had in years, plus a nasty work deadline and a ton of travel in the last few weeks. I do have lots of food to write about but it’s all on my camera and in lieu of finding the camera to upload the photos, I am going to show you pretty, pretty pictures of flowers.

And you’ll like it.

When I was home in Oregon a couple weeks ago (catching this cold) my mom and I visited a good friend who lives on a little farm a few miles outside of town. Linda is a fanatic gardener, especially of roses, and she took me on a garden tour that ended with the culling of more peonies than I’ve ever seen in my life. I filled all of her vases and still took home enough to fill my parents’ entire house. Witness:

The water lilies are blooming, and they should be grateful for the chance, since Linda wants to take out their high-maintenance pond home:

water lily

The gooseberries are ripening, in their magically glowy way:

gooseberry

It’s a bower:

wild rose

Our harvest (incomplete):

peonies

peony

We saw this man on our way home. That is a…dirt unicycle?

One of the many tagalongs I found in the flowers (one earwig managed to evade us until falling into a coffee cup the next day!!):

All arranged:

Linda also had 4-foot calla lilies, so I arranged some of those in the Orla Kiely pitcher I’d brought my mom:

Such ruffles:

If that isn’t luxury, I don’t know what is.

—–

As long as I’m posting greenery-themed photos, I took these in Rome for the darling Germinatrix, who loves overgrown buildings.

ivy covered

CSA week 1: Greens aplenty, chicken with tatsoi

I was in Oregon for a week to visit my parents and go to my cousin’s high school graduation (yay!), and I was going to be in the air en route from Salt Lake to Boston when the hour of the first CSA pickup rolled around. So Ben went. He also took lots and lots of photos of all the vegetables before washing everything* and putting it in the fridge. Thanks, honey!

So! Week 1, 2009:

produce
-1 head of lettuce
-1 head tatsoi
-Mesclun
-Small bunch of arugula
-Very small amount of large spinach leaves
-1 bunch radishes
-1 pint strawberries (!)
-1 parsnip (Did he overwinter in the root cellar? Does he know I hate parsnips? Poor thing.)

Ben took beauty shots of many of the items, so let’s admire the strawberries:

strawberries

And an extremely exciting** development at Stone Soup Farm this year was the acquisition of lots of chickens! So we got an egg share in addition to our veggies:

eggs

Later in the week I used the tatsoi in a simple stir fry with chicken. It would have been even simpler if the greens weren’t quite so organic, because it took me ages to get them completely free of the aphids and little hard-shelled bugs clinging to each leaf. But I would rather clean off pests than eat pesticides.

Tatsoi is an Asian field mustard variety that looks, to me, like a wedding bouquet:

tatsoi

While I cleaned the greens I marinated a couple chicken breasts in soy sauce, grated ginger and minced garlic. I’d sliced the chicken against the grain, which gave it a nice texture. (I’ll spare you raw chicken photos today.)

Then I sauteed the chicken in two batches in my wok. The strips were thin and cooked really fast; at the end I added in the greens and cooked them very briefly, until they wilted, and served the whole thing over sticky rice.

The chicken looks dry in that photo, but it wasn’t, actually. Considering that rice and chicken are the two things I’m not comfortable cooking, this came out remarkably well.

*While rewashing the many, many aphids off the tatsoi I explained to him that dashing the greens under water for a second doesn’t do the trick. Also that it’s better to just wash everything right before you use it. But I appreciated the effort!

**Eggstremely eggciting!

(Help.)

In other news, I don’t normally talk about books here but… whyever not? Last night I finally read The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society, and it was grand. Lots of fun. I adore epistolary novels (must be the sensation of eavesdropping? And maybe the slight mystery of jumping into something already in progress and getting to know the characters in dribs and drabs), and now I want to reread 84, Charing Cross Road (which is actually not a novel; they are real letters) and Ella Minnow Pea. I was crushed when I first visited London and found that 84 Charing Cross Road is now a Pizza Hut or something similarly hideous. Anyway, if you enjoyed The Guernsey Longest Title Ever, you might check out those two: 84, CCR is the post-WWII correspondence between a writer in NYC and a bookseller in London (similar content and tone!). Ella Minnow Pea is an extremely funny/odd little book of letters by residents of an imaginary island off the coast of South Carolina, where the alphabet is being gradually outlawed by the government as letters drop off a statue of the island’s founder, the man who came up with the “quick brown fox…” sentence. Hee.

Oh, and I also painted a little canvas based on one of my photos from Rome. I’m trying to paint the way I sketch in my travel journals; looser and less worried about perfection. It’s in my Etsy shop!

Fiat painting

What’s for dinner: BLT Salad

Here’s what I’m actually cooking tonight, despite incredibly chilly weather that makes it a bit inappropriate. It’s also what I made the night we got back from Italy, which is why I haven’t yet found a homemade creamy dressing recipe I like, and am instead trying to use up a bottle of creamy parmesan dressing from Whole Foods.

Ahem. Anyway. Back in March I was in DC reporting a story and I had the pleasure of visiting with my friends Rachel and Jen. We ate dinner at Matchbox, and I basically bogarted the “Matchbox Chopped Salad,” a genius easy-to-eat BLT with pasta subbing in for bread. When I spotted a sale on grape tomatoes at Whole Foods in my post-flight stupor, I grabbed them and happily spent the next few days eating bowls of this salad. (See note at the end for instructions on making it last!)

Here’s the thing. I used a head of organic iceberg for this, and I really do think that crunch and ease-of-slicing is best. Tonight I have regular leaf lettuce or mesclun (from the 1st CSA box of the season!), but in general if you can find iceberg that is more green than white, it’s great here.

BLT Salad
4 servings

1 small head of good iceberg lettuce
1/4 red onion
1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes
1/2 lb. pasta, preferably a loose spiral or something (I used what I had on hand)
1/2-3/4 of a pound of good, thick-cut bacon (I used hickory-smoked, I think), cooked
Creamy dressing of your choice, to taste

I quartered the grape tomatoes and diced the red onion:

I cooked pasta and then rinsed it in cold water to cool it down, and added that in:

When you’re ready to serve, chop up the cooked bacon (I bake mine in a 400 degree oven until crispy, so it stays flat) and your lettuce, add them to the tomato mixture, and dress to taste. Hold back a few pieces of bacon to scatter on top. It doesn’t look like much but it is soooo good.

Note: To make this keep for a few lunches, as I did, only dress the portion you’re using the first night, using only that proportion of the lettuce and bacon. Store the pasta/tomato mixture in a tupperware and wrap the bacon and lettuce up separately; it takes 2 seconds to chop up some more lettuce and stir everything together with the dressing at lunch time.

(It really is cold out, though. Maybe I should do a absorption pasta with tomatoes and bacon and a salad on the side? Hmm. Oh! I think we got arugula from the CSA. I could stir that in at the end. But I’m craving the salad. Oh dear.)

Italy: Small bites

I love small foods. Tapas, appetizers, hors d’oeuvres. Anything that can be eaten in one to four bites, especially if I can make a whole meal out of little nibbles of this and that. What can I say? For all my love of food I can’t ever eat very much at once, and since I want to try as many things as possible I usually avoid entrees in favor of a couple appetizers. Here are a few of the little bites we enjoyed on our trip:

Venice
Cicheti are Venice’s famous bar snacks, and since I slavishly marked down a bunch of recommendations from the NYTimes before we left, we found our way to Enoteca Schiavi, a bacaro a few blocks from our B&B, soon after we arrived in Venice. We ordered spritz cocktails (prosecco with Campari, in this case) to go, along with a few of the little crostini from behind the counter. We didn’t really know what was in any of them so we picked the intriguing-looking ones, toted everything to the little piazza across the canal, and kicked back.

Let’s see. The upper left and lower right are both mozzarella rolled around fillings: Spicy chili paste with julienned zucchini on the left, salmon (lox-like) and arugula on the right. On the lower left is my favorite by a long shot, though I’m not really sure what it is. The base is some sort of meat–I’d assume a head-cheese type pork product? (Appetizing, I know!) It is topped with a puree of artichoke, and maybe a bit of eggplant? Amazing. I should have gotten a few more of those! I didn’t get a taste of the one on the upper right, but I know it was ricotta with some sort of topping and random kiwi slice.

Ben *HATED* the Campari. I forgot to warn him about the flavor, which I like, but even I thought this was a bit strong. I think there was about a tablespoon of prosecco in with that very healthy slug of Campari! (Sorry about the close-up of my thumb.)

Ben had to jog back across the canal to the gelato place next door for a bit of flavor correction in the form of chocolate gelato.

The next day we made a lunch of various options from a different bacaro, where a crowd of old men standing around the counter slugging back little glasses of wine (it was not quite noon) drew us in.

The three crostini are topped with a black olive spread, an artichoke spread, and one made from radicchio (upper right). I loved the radicchio one but when I asked about how it’s made it turned out to be from a jar. Worth experimenting, though. That little pizzetta in the corner was excellent.

panini

“Panini piccole,” little panini. Those were eat about four inches wide, I’d guess? We shared the salami one and each had one with ham.

Oh, and wee little gelato for dessert.

San Gimignano
(Please excuse the astonishingly ugly photos you’re about to see. The light was unspeakably bad and I could barely hold the camera steady.)

From the bread basket at Le Vecchie Mura, on the walls of San Gimignano, a simple but delicious hard-toasted bread that had been rubbed with tomato and herbs before baking:

And our appetizer of lardo bruschetta:

lardo

I am a strong believer in lardo (why mess around, let’s get straight to the pure fat!), but the seasoning here was very different from what I’ve had before. It was almost sweet; I think there was some spice like nutmeg used in the cure?

At an amazing lunch at the Antinori family’s Tignanello estate the next day, we ate a prototypical Tuscan meal (about which, much more later), beginning with the most famous crostini of all, chicken liver. Also delicious little tomato tartlets. Both were packed with flavor and definitely made me wish I could quiz the kitchen staff.

Rome
Finally, when you’re in Rome during a heat wave you need as many cooling snacks as possible. One of the best we had was a granita di café con panna (panna=whipped cream) from the famous Tazza d’Oro coffee shop. The photo tells the story, I think.

granita

This would be easy to do at home, too. The granita is very, very sweet, while the cream is completely unsweetened. I would sweeten the coffee less and use more of the granita with less of the cream for a summer dessert.


Still to come: Produce Porn from markets in Venice and Rome, the highlights of our actual meals on the road, plus a bit of home cooking (best salad ever!). I’m back on the road starting tomorrow, until early next week, but will do my best to post while I’m away. Thanks to everyone who has given me feedback re. what they like on the blog and what they’d like to see more of; please keep it coming!

Also, the title of this post makes me think of Italy in Small Bites, one of my all-time-favorite cookbooks for reading during an after school snack. Our dining room table at home was always next to my mom’s bookcase of cookbooks, so I would grab one and read a few chapters while I ate, and Italy in Small Bites and the China Moon Cookbook were the best. I need to get my own copy! It has recipes for all the snack foods, flatbreads, fried nibbles and other little delights that you actually want to reproduce at home. Plus it’s a very good read.

Make me a water bottle*

Our last night in Italy I fell so much in love with the bottle from our mineral water that I actually packed it in my suitcase and brought it home with me. I also discovered that photographing clear glass is incredibly tricky.

Once we got home I soaked off the small label that was on the bottom section of the bottle, and I will use it as a water carafe this summer. Those embossed raindrops kill me—so simple and great. Is it weird that I brought back a mineral water bottle as my favorite souvenir?

——-

On a completely different topic, I am thinking a lot about my goals and wishes for this blog, and trying to figure out which direction to go with it. If you have time, do you mind telling me what you’d like to see more of, or what you enjoy reading about? CSA season starts in about 10 days, so I will have lots of produce to write about, and I’m considering a few more ambitious projects, as well. I would love your input.

*I am sad that Salome was kicked off Make me a Super Model while we were gone.

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