Food world stargazing/hero worship

Last week we went to a panel at BU called “Food and Memory: Biography, Autobiography, and Film,” featuring an unbelievable panel made up of Jacques Pépin, Judith Jones, and Alex Prud’homme, with Corby Kummer moderating. It was basically an “I knew the real woman” conversation about Julia Child, followed by a showing of “Julie and Julia.”

One of my biggest regrets (an indication that I’m pretty lucky, I guess) is that I didn’t get to attend an event at BU while I was a student there, in which Jacques and Julia did a demonstration together. I found out about it too late to get a ticket, saaaaadness. I wasn’t about to miss this one! The event, I’m sorry to say, was not particularly well-run (as a BU alum I have to be clear and point out that it seemed to be organized through the continuing ed program, not the college itself, which tends to run everything with military precision), but the panel! I mean, how many chances do you get to see Judith Jones and Jacques Pépin in the flesh? And Alex Prud’homme was delightful, full of insights into Julia-as-a-person. The talk was full of fun nuggets about working with Julia and the delicate balance Meryl Streep achieved in terms of capturing her drive and toughness in addition to the showy hamminess that everyone saw on her tv shows. I got a chance to speak with all three afterward, at length with Mr. Prud’homme, and all were lovely.

Fellow Boston-area food blogger Adrienne Bruno was able to join me and Ben at the last minute, canceling dinner plans to do so, and it was great to meet in person. She was also way better positioned for photo-taking during the panel; all of my shots are mostly made up of the large head of the woman in front of me. So thank you to Adrienne for the photos!

"Food and Memory" panel

Adrienne also took a picture of me looking a little crazed (agh!) with Jacques Pépin. I was thrilled to buy a hardcover copy of The Apprentice (have you read it? READ IT!) and get him to sign it. One of my favorite food-memoirs ever, which is saying a lot.

Kate with Jacques Pépin

I did find it hilarious that at an event like this, talking about Julia for an hour+ and then watching her eat her way through France, the “reception” consisted of pretzels, popcorn and Julia’s favorite cocktail snack, goldfish crackers. I made my dinner out of about three bowls of goldfish crackers and a Jamba Juice smoothie from the food court downstairs. Further hilarity was provided by the mostly extremely, um, mature crowd, which arrived early and was enraged not to be allowed in to claim seats right away. I really though there was going to be a slow-motion cane fight by the time we finally went into the giant auditorium. The old folks didn’t stick around for the movie, by the way.

Classics: Taco/nacho night

Apparently taco night is a standby in, like, 90% of families. Not ours—we used to have nachos for dinner on Sunday nights on occasion, but never ever tacos. Still, I like the “assemble your own” idea, and there are few things easier than cooking up some seasoned meat, heating the shells, and putting out all the rest of the goodies. Besides, now that I’m going to be a mom, I have an obligation to develop a set of go-to meals, right? (It’s a boy, by the way!)

I used shells from Trader Joe’s (which also supplied guacamole and salsa) and an organic seasoning mix from Whole Foods. I much prefer the taco seasoning powder from Christina’s Spice Shop in Inman Sq., but I used it all up making chili, oops! I cooked a pound of beef so I’d have lots leftover for nachos!

The goods:
Tacos

My mom always used yogurt instead of sour cream, and I do the same, but with greek yogurt, which mimics the texture so well Ben didn’t believe me the first time.

Tacos

Tacos

Delicious, if messy, and required about 20 minutes of total prep, including washing and cutting up lettuce and tomato. If I can find a source for good tortillas we’ll do soft tacos next time.

A few nights later it was, um, The Oscars. (I know, I’m always behind. The problem is that I don’t have a single solitary photo of any meals since then. We’ve been all over the place, and barely eating at home, and when we have I’ve been slacking and doing things like Rising Moon ravioli. Next week appears to be better; anyone have anything they’d like to see cooked?)

ANYWAY. The Oscars! Party on the futon! Nachos for dinner! I was in the middle of a constantly-ravenous phase, and I accidentally made such enormous, filling plates of nachos that, well…we’ll get to that.

What I used:
-Everything from the tacos (guacamole, salsa, tomatoes, lettuce, meat, yogurt)
-Chips
-Refried beans. This was the one-step-too-far decision.

I put a layer of nachos in the bottom of a pasta plate, then heaped lettuce on top and dabbed on guacamole, salsa, beans, yogurt, and covered it with meat and tomatoes.

Nachos

Then another layer of the chips/cheese, and more of all the toppings:

Nachos

Side view: It’s a salad! Sort of.

Nachos

Uuuugh. So tasty! So easy to just. keep. eating. We could have split one of those plates; instead we each ate our own. Yikes. Poor Ben ate and ate and ate and finally turned to me and said “what are you doing to me?”

And then he fell asleep.

Floral bliss

I spent a really wonderful few days in NYC last week, socializing like mad and soaking in my beloved old neighborhood. Bridge just moved 1 block away from my old Boerum Hill place, and it was amazing to see how the area has changed in three years! We ate a fantastic dinner at Char No. 4, and sucked down craft cocktails (virgin, in my case) at Clover Club while gobbling their amazing homemade chips. We also had a great girl’s night, and I spent a great afternoon with Grace—and even introduced her to the wonders of my beloved Trader Joe’s!

Before heading to LI for a family party, I spent much of drizzly Friday with the lovely Amy, who (among her many, many projects) works at Saipua, a gorgeous floral shop in Red Hook. Owner Sarah was kind enough to let me tag along for the morning, and since it was a busy day I got to help out with a bunch of small arrangements. All in all I did four tiny nosegays and four medium arrangements, all while reveling in the luxury of actually having my choice of flowers and filler to work with. Pretty different from my usual “stick a bunch of TJ’s tulips in a vase” approach! If only there were a wholesale flower market in Boston where the public was allowed to shop…

Anyway, in honor of the gorgeous spring sunshine that is finally shining down (my office smells like wet wood from the leaking window catastrophe of this flooded weekend), photos of pretty, pretty flowers:

Literal buckets of flowers to work with:

Saipua

Two of my nosegays:

Saipua

Saipua

One of the medium arrangements:

Saipua

Saipua

Saipua

The day’s work:

Saipua

Saipua

Amy made this totally amazing centerpiece (my nosegays were going to accompany it, in awe at their bigger sibling!). You can actually see where it started in the first photo of all the flowers in the shop–it’s built in that silver footed bowl with the floral foam in it! Excuse the iPhone pics.

Front:

Saipua

Back:

Saipua

So cool! For contrast, here’s my current home masterpiece, pretty in its own way but awfully simple!

Ruffly tulips

I have to say, I’ve finally gotten fully on board with living in Boston (well, Cambridge!), and when I’m back in NY it feels really dirty and annoyingly difficult to get in and out of. But I sure miss the social side of my life there. I need to make a concerted effort to limit my hermit-like tendencies; I felt like a new person after a few days of seeing old and new friends and wandering around shops. I also have to say how thankful I am for the blog community, which has connected me with awesome people like Amy and Grace. It’s just really amazing to meet like-minded folk, especially those whose paths would never otherwise have crossed mine. It makes me schmoopy.

Ahem. Back to food someday soon. I have thrilling photos of nachos for you.

Pasta, fully loaded

Last month, while on our annual visit to dear friends down in Sarasota, we enjoyed a massive and fabulous meal at a Tapas restaurant in town. (I also got to be the designated driver for the first time, thanks to the restaurant’s slight delay in seating us and the decision of the non-pregnant members of our party to work through the several bars in the building en route to our table.)

Everyone else was in a meat mood, but the highlight of the evening for me was a sauteed spinach dish with dried figs, honey and onions. The onions seemed scorched, or something, which gave them a delicious smokiness to offset the sweet figs and honey. I had trouble releasing the dish to be shared.

Once we were home, I started thinking about scorched onions and other ways to use them, and I settled on a kale/sausage/onion pasta dish. I was going to cook the pasta absorption style, but then I remembered Smitten Kitchen’s post about spaghetti with cheese and pepper, and figured I could use that as my base.

Ingredients:

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I started by cooking the sausage (out of the casings) until it was nearly done. I wiped most of the grease from the pan (but not all of it, for which I paid), and started the onions. My mom and I had discussed it and thought a dry pan was probably the best bet if I wanted a scorch on the onions before covering them and letting them cook through with the steam from the liquid they would release.

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Yeah, the deliciousness left over from the sausage was not a “dry pan.” That all started to really burn on, pretty quickly. In fact, the pan turned completely black. Also a Swiffer Wet-Jet is not ideal for turning off a smoke alarm, FYI. Awkward handle shape.

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And yet the onions didn’t really get the smoky flavor I was looking for. On further reflection the next day, Mom and I agreed that the restaurant was almost certainly using a flat-top to cook the onions. Maybe I’ll try a griddle next time? And NO OIL?

Remaining ingredients:

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I had to wash the pan after the onions were done; it actually scraped clean pretty easily since I added boiling pasta water (pre-pasta) to it while it was hot, and then scraped off the blackened stuff. Tip: Never let a badly burnt-on pan cool before filling it with HOT water to soak. Scrape while it’s all still hot and you will save yourself endless scrubbing.

After a cursory wipe-down, I cooked the kale quickly. Meanwhile the pasta was cooked.

As per the recipe, I heated oil in the pasta pot, added back the pasta, and added in some of the pasta water. In went the cheese, pepper and butter:

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Not really coated enough. Less pasta water next time. More cheese.

In went the kale, sausage and onions.

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Funny how thinly stretched a mountain of onions and kale can seem once you add them to a pound of pasta. I could definitely have used at least one more sausage, though I was using hot ones from the freezer and it would have been too spicy for our wimpy palates with more.

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Great flavor combination (obviously; it’s one I use all the time…branch out, Kate!). I left the kale a little less cooked than usual so it had great chew against the pasta. The onions were more caramelized-tasting than I wanted, but overall it was delicious.

I really need to work out the key to those onions, though. I want that spinach dish.

The basics: Split pea soup

I was going to post a pasta recipe today, but the view from my window (grey skies, something between snow and rain) is one that requires soup. This is one of those recipes that I just have to post in case you don’t have a favorite already. Split pea soup is the easiest thing in the universe to cook, and cheap as anything, but so comforting and filling that it always feels like a treat to me.

When I was a kid split pea was my favorite—maybe because it was one of the rare times we ate bacon, which my mom cooked and cooled tantalizingly on the counter, and then crumbled onto each bowl. If you’ve ever lived in the Pacific Northwest you know that there is a certain kind of squelching rain that comes every so often in the winter and lasts for days on end, different from the usual misty stuff and much colder. The exact right thing on those days is to come home and smell the house full of peas and ham and bacon. Sometimes we’d have grilled cheese (rough country bread and good cheese) to dip in it, sometimes toast with butter. I always sang “Pease porridge hot” in my head and thought of “Pease porridge in the pot, nine days old” and how we never, ever let it go that long. Leftovers were always gobbled up quickly. I think Laura says the same thing about bean soup in one of the Little House books, as a matter of fact.

And take it from me, split pea soup actually is still pretty delicious cold.

This is the recipe my mom used when I was a kid, and which I still prefer. She has moved on to a Jacques Pepin recipe with herbes de provence and a bit rougher texture, but this will always be split pea soup to me:

Split Pea Soup
from James Beard

2 cups dried split peas
2 quarts water
1 meaty ham hock
2 cloves garlic, peeled & crushed
1 medium yellow onion, peeled, left whole
2 cloves (stick in onion)
2 stalks celery, cut in half, cross-wise
2 carrots, peeled & cut length-wise
1 bay leaf

Spread out one cup of the split peas at a time on a cookie sheet and pick over for tiny stones or sticks. Rinse with cold water & drain.

* Put all ingredients in a pot, bring to a boil, reduce to simmer.
* Cook a couple of hours until peas are soft.
* Remove ham hock and cut off meat; set aside.
* Throw away onion with cloves, garlic, celery & bay leaf.
* Puree peas & carrots (or not if you don’t want carrots)
* Return soup to pot, add ham bits, salt & pepper to taste.
* Serve hot with cornbread.

I was low on onions, didn’t have celery and couldn’t find a bay leaf on the day I made this batch. Sure, it would be even better with the right stuff, but it was still delicious. Prepping this soup takes all of five minutes.

I was also using half yellow and half green split peas. (It was gross out and I was not making a trip to the store.) Rereading the recipe just now, I realized I never rinse the peas! Oops.

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Despite its healthy appearance, this was a sadly disappointing ham hock. In fact, I have had enough trouble getting ham hocks (Whole Foods has to special order them. Honestly!) that when I found them at the normally-wonderful Savenor’s I bought four, two for the double batch I was making at the ski house, two to freeze for later. I’ve now used three of them and they have been horrible, with virtually no meat. Normally I get about a half cup of ham off the hock at the end, to chop up and put back in; these have given me just a few splinters. So weird!

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(Note the tiny halved onions because all I had were little sprouting ones. Leave the onion whole, normally, which makes fishing it out far easier.)

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Cooked, with ham hock and most of the carrots removed. Pre-blending. I use my immersion blender right in the pot and it gives me lovely silky soup.

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Like so:

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By the way, this requires quite a bit of salt and pepper at the end, especially if you don’t have a ton of ham to add back in. Keep tasting and stirring and adjusting. Hmm, it’s been a couple weeks since I made this… Time for another batch soon.

P.S. I joined Formspring, so head on over and ask me a question! http://www.formspring.me/kateflaim

Stupidly simple fresh pastries, no work required

This is a lazy thing to post about, but I consider it a public service announcement.

You guys. I don’t know how many of you share my emotions on the subject of pastry, but I bet it’s a high percentage. I can’t get enough of good buttery pastries, mainly of the flaky croissant family, and pain au chocolat, with a good cup of coffee, is just one of those perfect foods. Ages ago I’d read somewhere that Trader Joe’s*, that home of genius food shortcuts, sells a good frozen croissant and pain au chocolat, ready to proof and bake at home. I always forgot to actually buy any, but last week they jumped out at me and I was eager to try them over the weekend.

Then I had an appendicitis scare, spent Friday night and Saturday in the hospital, and didn’t get to eat any real food for a little while. But that’s all in the past now! Everything is fine! I am a medical mystery! And I wanted to reward Ben for his frenzied trip home from a business trip to spend the night in the hospital with me, so before I fell into my own wonderful bed Saturday night I set the pain au chocolat out to proof. I was in no state to find my camera, and I failed to take photos of the little cigar-shaped frozen pastries or their box. Suffice it to say, the box warns that you need to leave four to five INCHES between them on the sheet, before leaving them out overnight to rise. I felt weird leaving them on the counter uncovered, as directed, so I popped the tray in the cold oven for a bit of protection from the elements.

Sure enough, when I woke up Sunday morning, the cigars were crazily puffy:

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And after 22 minutes or so in the oven:

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Wow, those were so good. REALLY flaky and light, very buttery, nicely bittersweet chocolate. In fact, they’d puffed up so much they were almost hard to eat! BTW, you can add an optional egg wash for added shininess. I forgot, and as you can see mine looked pretty much just like the box.

Here’s what the box looks like (thank you interwebs for filling in here):

Image via Just Insomnia, where the blogger actually met the baker who makes the croissants–apparently he does desserts for places like Dean & Deluca, too. This explains a lot.

*I swear, Trader Joe’s isn’t paying me, even though I’m pretty sure almost every post I tag “good stuff” talks about something from there. I just love them.

Mega-stir fry vegetable explosion

Thanks to everyone for your well-wishes and sweet comments on the last post!

I have definitely noticed a shift in…not tastes, so much as food desires since I got pregnant. Well, in the last few weeks since I started eating again, anyway. I have never been a girl to turn up her nose at things like donuts (and I am famous for my love of fried food), but now I find myself fixating, even if I don’t end up eating the thing in question. I’m also really bothered by the food ads on TV, which for the first time ever are making me want whatever they show–McNuggets, Pepperidge Farm garlic bread, etc. I haven’t followed through, but it’s weird for me to sit on the couch and think, “Chicken Nuggets! Brilliant idea!”

The good news is that I also think “Kale! Best idea EVER!” So things aren’t too out of whack. In fact, the first real meal I cooked once I stopped resorting to premade pizza crusts and extra-simple pasta dishes was a gigantic stir fry. I got the idea in my head, went to Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods, and came home with everything I had spotted that seemed remotely appealing or logical in stir fry. To wit:

Stir fry

Also some beef, which I froze for an hour or so and sliced as thinly as possible before marinating in a new TJ’s discovery:

Stir fry

I had planned to make my own marinade/stiry fry sauce, but I spotted this one and the ingredients were literally exactly the same as what I planned to use: Soy, ginger, garlic, sesame seeds, etc. Shortcut time! I found it a bit sweet, in the end, so I’ll cut it with rice vinegar in the future.

As with any stir fry, cutting up all the vegetables is the time-consuming part.

Stir fry

I cooked the beef about 80% first, and then set it aside. Then the vegetables: The general rule is to get your oil hot hot hot, cook your aromatics (garlic, ginger, red pepper) quickly, then add the hardest vegetables, which will require the longest time to cook. I’d been lazy and cut the zucchini a bit thick, so that went in first with the onion, before my very tiny carrot and pepper matchsticks.

Stir fry

Those were next, followed by the peas.

Stir fry

Then the bok choi stems:

Stir fry

Then I added the beef back in to finish cooking, and added in some of the sauce (obviously fresh, not what I’d used to marinate):

Stir fry

And finally the bok choi and napa cabbage, just to wilt for a second.

Stir fry

All done!

Stir fry

Probably about 5 minutes total, but timing varies depending on your stove, vegetables, etc.

We ate it with rice. Actually, I ate it with rice for about three days, because that was quite a bit of stir fry.

Stir fry

Yum. Maybe I should make another batch.

Big news: Why I wasn’t cooking

Ok, I finally feel like I can put this out there: I actually had a legitimate reason for completely flaking out, food- and blog-wise, for a couple months there. The Girl Reporter household is adding a new member this summer; we’re expecting a Flaimlet! I’m due in August, and I cannot express how repulsive food seemed for most of December-January. Also I was napping a lot.

As a matter of fact, we found out on the DAY OF our holiday party (which explains our dazed/delirious looks in the photos, despite my consumption of sparkling cider only), and that was my last real cooking effort for quite a while. Over Christmas in Oregon I indulged in such lavish delicacies as half a cup of yogurt with a bit of granola while everyone else ate beef bourguignon. And then laid still for a while. Party on! (Note to pregnant ladies: Eat, even if you aren’t hungry. Saltines did nothing for me; I needed protein. Once I added raw almonds, greek yogurt, etc. to my mid-afternoon routine life became muuuuch easier.)

Now that my appetite has come back (with a vengeance, sigh) and we’re back from a few trips, hopefully I’ll be cooking regularly again. Poor Ben had a meager diet for a while there. Meanwhile, I thought these photos were fun, juxtaposed against their summer counterparts. We were out at Crane Beach and around a pond further inland a couple weekends ago, and later I realized I had similar photos from a trip to those exact spots when everything was significantly warmer.

Crane Beach, January 31:

Crane beach, winter

Crane Beach, July 5:

Summer on the North Shore

Salt marches near Crane Beach, January 31:

Crane beach, winter

Crane beach, winter

Crane beach, winter

Looking down at the marshes, July 5:

Summer on the North Shore

Pond with the best swimming hole, January 31 (Someone kept biking around, but we couldn’t get a clear shot):

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Swimming hole, July 5:

Summer on the North Shore

Serious Pie

I just haven’t been cooking, guys. Ben has been super busy and we haven’t had a lot of dinners at home, and when we have I’m afraid I’ve been doing a lot of pizzas (built on crusts from WF, agh) and salads. I keep going to iPhoto looking for something to upload and blog but I’m running on empty, here! (Literally. I think the nutritional balance of the Flaim household has dropped significantly over the past month or two.)

I truly, truly hope to get things back on track soon, but meanwhile how about a slice of pie, made by the genius pie fairies at the Agawam Diner in Rowley, MA up on the North Shore:

Coconut Cream Pie

Oooooh yeah. That’s coconut cream pie, homemade, and the size of my head. Other options included, on Sunday, custard, chocolate cream, chocolate mousse (more like a cake), “squash”, banana cream, apple, strawberry-rhubarb, and enough others that once I’d fixed on coconut cream I sort of tuned out. In the past the crust has been so-so, but this time it was great.

The Agawam Diner is our favorite mid-ramble lunch spot–it’s a classic 50s shiny metal diner with classic diner food (Ben most recently had chicken salad on a buttered and grilled NE-style hot dog bun), service that varies from lovingly gruff to surly, and amazing prices. And pie. Michael Stern reviewed it for Road Food a couple years ago.

Highly recommended.

Baked cauliflower pasta

My mom gave me Hungry Monkey by Matthew Amster-Burton for Christmas. It’s a fun food memoir, recording his adventures in eating with his daughter during her toddler and preschool years. It’s also full of tasty-sounding (and kid-friendly) recipes, most of which I probably won’t be trying for years and years. But one early-January night the siren call of cauliflower combined with the dismal weather and inspired me to make his baked pasta with cauliflower. It’s from the White Foods chapter, I think.

This is a really simple recipe, but a little heavy on the fatty ingredients. I also found that it wasn’t a great re-heater; it’s one of those cheesy dishes that gets pretty greasy when it’s heated back up. Next time I will make a half batch in an 8×8 pan instead of a full batch in the 9×13.

Baked Pasta with Cauliflower
From Hungry Monkey (He says it’s based on a recipe from the fabulous Cucina Simpatica, which is one of those cookbooks I’m always cooking things from and yet don’t own. Must remedy.)

2 cups heavy cream
1 1/2 ounces (1/2 cup) shredded pecorino Romano or Pamesan
1/2 cup shredded low-moisture whole milk mozzarella
2 tablespoons ricotta (I asked at the cheese counter at Whole Foods and they gave me a bit of the bulk stuff that they repackage in back)
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
12 ounces penne or farfalle
1 medium head cauliflower (~1.5 pounds), cut into small florets
4 tablespoons butter
I also added some red pepper flakes; the dish was still a tad bland.

Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Stir together the cream, cheeses, and salt in a large bowl.

Creamy cauliflower pasta

(Ben did this part)

Creamy cauliflower pasta

Boil the pasta and cauliflower together in salted water for four minutes, and drain.

Creamy cauliflower pasta

Creamy cauliflower pasta

Toss the drained pasta and cauliflower into the bowl with the cream and cheeses. Combine well. Transfer into a 9×13 baking dish and dot the butter over the top (also some cheese, if you’re me).

Creamy cauliflower pasta

Bake 10-12 minutes (he actually recommends using 4 small dishes for individual servings; I used a big one and baked about 15 minutes, I think), or until some of the pasta is well-browned and crunchy. Serve immediately.

Creamy cauliflower pasta

It was crucially important to serve a sharply-dressed (as in tangy, not natty) salad on the side, since the pasta was so creamy and rich.

Creamy cauliflower pasta

I really did enjoy this, but I want to play around with the technique. I think I could reduce the amount of cream, maybe subbing in some whole milk? It’s essentially absorption pasta cooked in the oven with a brief par-boil to get it going. Adding sausage and kale would be terrific, too.

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