Tag Archives: Food

Food, Travel

Glasgow fly-by

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I barely remember the brief Glasgow trip, though it was only a week ago. I came down with a terrible cold just in time for my flight back to the UK after Thanksgiving (thanks, tin can of recycled air! Ah, air travel…) and spent the entire flight with my ears *killing* me thanks to the congestion and pressure. I flew through Amsterdam and got to Glasgow around noon on Sunday, but was feeling so wretched that I didn’t get to explore as much as I hoped. I did brave the rain for a couple hours to go find a drugstore and buy a travel alarm clock, so I passed along Buchanan St. and saw some young bagpipers (in kilts), which convinced me I was in the right city.

Glasgow presented an impressive but rather forbidding face to me:

But the people were lovely and the square where we were working summoned up all sorts of scenes from Victorian novels. (Especially in The Little Princess, when Sarah Crewe is watching The Big Family unload from their carriage across the square.)

After muddling through work despite the extremely congested head, my colleague and I ate a couple good dinners. Monday we ate at Two Fat Ladies, a seafood restaurant nearby that had recently won a Best of Glasgow award. I had a spicy tomato soup (good for the congestion!) and a delicious bowl of mussels. Tanya had an amazing plate of grilled sardines (they were enormous, about 5-6 inches long) and seared scallops. Yum! And a great little dining room, very friendly service, etc.

Our second night we went across town to the famous Ubiquitous Chip, an enormous place with several different dining options. We opted for the brasserie menu, and sat upstairs on a kind of catwalk overlooking the dining room.

I experimented, starting with rabbit liver (served with french toast and mushrooms):

…..Eh. Not a great texture. I’m used to the silkiness of fowl livers, and was a bit put off by how tough this was. May have been overcooked, though? Tanya had scallops again, which were excellent.

I followed that with an appetizer (but still enormous) portion of the house specialty, Vegetarian Haggis served with neeps and tatties:

The haggis was a little bland (it’s mostly lentils) but it grew on me. The turnips and potatoes were *delicious* and the whole thing was very good.

And that was that! A very quick visit, but I definitely want to go back to Scotland soon, with Ben. I want to see Edinburgh! I want to explore the countryside!

Cooking techniques, Family, Food, Home

Thanksgiving (late)

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I’m trying to play catch up a bit… I’m currently in Paris, where it is 1 a.m. Ben is joining me for the weekend tomorrow, and I’ve taken loads of photos, as one does, but I also have a pre-trip backlog. Namely Thanksgiving, which I did almost literally on the fly between trips. I had never roasted a turkey. The one time I roasted a chicken it was a disaster. But off we went!

I went to London the Saturday night before Thanksgiving, worked Monday-Wednesday, then flew back Wednesday afternoon. I got in around 7, we picked my brother Tom up from the airport, and headed home. Ben’s mom and brother joined us for a pasta dinner shortly after we got back (Ben, bless him, cooked), and I trotted off to bed soon after that.

Ben had done the shopping, using lists I’d pulled together on the fly from London. Naturally I’d forgotten lots of things since I wasn’t actually looking at recipes or, you know, spending more than 3 minutes thinking through what I needed to make Thanksgiving dinner. I did not discover any of the missing items until Thursday morning, when it was too late to do much about them (more on that in a moment).

Wednesday night after I went to bed, Ben and his mom made chocolate cream pie. In the morning, Ben made pumpkin pie, and we encountered some first-time-use glitches with the oven, so it took about two hours to get it cooked. Just as I started panicking, though, the oven fixed itself and behaved nicely while I baked the turkey. Meanwhile I realized I was missing shallots (for the beans), parsley (for the stuffing, oh well), celery (also for the stuffing), carrots (for stock and around the turkey), and, for the stuffing, of course….Bread. I meant to get a bag of those croutons that are already all dried out, because this was The Thanksgiving For Shortcuts.

Hmm.

What can you do at 11 a.m. on Thanksgiving? No grocery stores were open. Eventually Tom went to 7-11 and purchased two snack containers of baby carrots and celery, and a loaf of Pepperidge Farm white bread. He cut that up into small pieces and I toasted it as hard as I could without browning it. Meanwhile I prepped the lovely turkey, a little 13-pounder, that we’d gotten from Trader Joe’s. He was pre-brined, so I just had to remove the giblets, etc., give him a nice butter/salt/pepper massage, and slide him into the oven (breast down to start, per Bittman).

I started a stock that never came to anything, and over the course of the morning/afternoon I made the stuffing (dressing, I guess, since I cook it out of the bird), cranberry sauce, and Ben and Tom made a hectare of mashed potatoes. Tom blanched beans, which he later dressed with lemon and olive oil, since we didn’t have shallots. I nearly forgot to make the cauliflower soup that I wanted to start with, but I did that right before we ate. The brined turkey gave of lots of nice drippings and Bittman has you put veggies and broth in the pan, so there was plenty of juice. I used his method, which involves boiling down the drippings and adding cornstarch (dissolved in water) to thicken if needed. This had the benefit of being simpler than a roux, with fewer lumps, and also being gluten-free, so Christy could eat it. She said she hadn’t had gravy in years!

The feast:

First of all, Mr. Turkey. He was fantastic!! Combined with the brine, Bittman’s Start Breast Down and Flip method worked great (he says this maxes out around 10 pounds, but the guys managed to flip our 13-pounder, though I was not around when they did it so who knows…) and the white meat was very juicy. Hurray!

Before the turkey, though, we had soup:

Then the good stuff:

Followed (many hours later) by pies, courtesy of Ben!

It was the last meal at our patched together little table/kitchen table combo:

Because the next day our long back-ordered table came in, and the guys brought it home!

Food

Autumn pizza

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When my mom was in town at the end of October, we spent a day shopping on Newbury Street, and at one point we revived ourselves with a quick pizza and salad at Sonsie, a restaurant that has been there at least since I was in college. The pizza was really good (much better than I expected): Several tasty cheeses topped with butternut squash and walnuts. I later recreated it using some of the leftover delicata squash we had cooked.

Note the blackened walnuts on the lower right:

The old stove went to 600 not including the broil setting–it was nuts. And, um, walnuts cook fast.

The pizza was really good, but not quite as good as the restaurant one. The delicata isn’t very sweet, which I love when it’s a side dish. But in this you want the sweet squash to contrast with the bitterness of the hazelnuts and the richness of the cheese. I’ll try it again with some butternut, maybe. The textures are great and I really liked that sweet/bitter interplay so I want to play around more. (It’s a nice riff on the usual butternut squash or pumpkin ravioli topped with browned butter and walnuts.)

City Life, Food, Home, The Apartment

Perfect day

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Almost two weeks ago we were home for the weekend, without guests or a trip, for the first time since…. Hmm, early September. There was a crazy storm on Saturday, which I was excited to see forecast since Ben had studying to do and I wanted nothing so much as an excuse to laze around all day. Friday I got a delivery of a lovely loaf of challah from a guy in the office, and I stopped after work to pick up essential groceries so we wouldn’t have to go outside all day.

Witness, a perfect day (half of the Sunday NY Times comes Saturday, so we had that handy!):

I wandered out to the dining room around 9:30, greeted by steaming steel-cut oatmeal cooked by Ben, who is the Oatmeal Master. His other areas of expertise: brownies, chocolate chip cookies, and pancakes. I’m not going to argue with that skill set!

After a very leisurely breakfast we retired to the living room and lit a fire, which we kept going all day. It was a violent storm, extremely windy with sheets of rain and dramatic whipping-about of all the trees.

When we got hungry for a little lunch, I got out the naan I’d bought the night before, drizzled them with olive oil, and topped Ben’s with goat cheese and mine with ricotta salata and leftover beets, and heated them up:

Later there was mint tea (I love the Trader Joe’s brand):

And through the day, the fire and my annual re-read of Pride & Prejudice. What could be better?

We were supposed to go to a party that night but we didn’t end up heading out into the rain. A friend from b-school came over and we had a casual pasta dinner. So cozy! As much as I envy the outdoor living thing you can do in Southern CA, I could never give up late fall/winter days.

Cooking techniques, Food, Recipes

Dutch Baby experiment

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(Ok, that title may bring horrible searchers to the site.)

Many ages ago I wrote about making a Dutch Baby, or oven pancake. It was a favorite sunday night supper at home, and I have frequently made them when we needed a quick and comforting dinner.

Last Thursday we were exhausted and kind of cold, so I thought a Dutch Baby would be a great food solution. Only once I had started did I remember that we were almost out of milk. I had half and half, so I was about to dilute that with water when Ben suggested I use up some of the buttermilk we had in the fridge. “Hmm,” I said. “Buttermilk sure has a different texture from real milk.” But what the heck, we gave it a try. First of all, the batter was very yellow, even yellower than the 5 eggs usually make it:

(I had let the butter brown a bit too much in the oven, oops!)

And lo and behold, the dutch baby just didn’t puff. Ok, it did a little bit, but it didn’t soar upwards like it normally does. As a reminder, here is a normal Dutch Baby (Tom’s finger for scale):

Here is the buttermilk Dutch Baby, even flatter since I forgot to shoot a picture until I’d cut it:

Be honest, though: Doesn’t that look pretty freaking tasty? It was; it tasted great, and the only difference I noticed was that it was denser than normal. God, I could eat that every day! I’ll use milk next time, though–I missed the puffy sides!

Dutch Baby, from memory
(Recipe from Mom, of course!)
5 eggs
1 cup milk
1 cup flour
1/3 cup butter

Preheat the oven to 425 and put the butter in a 9X13 pyrex dish. Put it in the oven to melt.

While the butter melts, crack the eggs into a blender and blend on high for 1 minutes. Gradually add the milk and blend briefly. Gradually add the flour and blend for 30 seconds.

Pour the batter into the melted butter (BE CAREFUL taking that pyrex out of the oven; it’s hot!) and bake for about 20-25 minutes, until it is enormously puffed up and nicely golden brown. Aim for photo 2, not photo 3. Serve hot with syrup or with powdered sugar and fruit. Yum!

Cooking techniques, Family, Food

Simple good things

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Last weekend my mom was in town for a visit, and on Friday night I came home and she had cooked a ton of food—the house smelled amazing! I can’t tell you how luxurious it was to come home and have dinner already almost done. She cooked loads of gorgeous yellow beets, green beans with shallots, roasted potatoes, delicata squash and sautéed chicken. We were set up with enough leftover that I didn’t have to cook anything from scratch all week.

The happy scene in the kitchen:

Beets are just so jewel-like. These were roasted and peeled, then sliced and dressed with a simple dressing to accompany a lovely arugula salad with goat cheese and walnuts.

Autumn colors! Orange beets, yellow squash.

Delicata are so delicious–roasted cut side down, the edges caramelize. We serve them with butter, salt and pepper, and they are creamy and sweet.

It sounds ridiculous, but I avoid cooking chicken; it makes me feel insecure. I have had fairly successful experiences so far, but I hate pounding the breasts flat, and I’m paranoid about overcooking. My mom cooked chicken on the stove to demonstrate how simple it is (this really does seem silly-simple, but oh well!).

After cleaning and pounding the breasts to an even thickness, pat them dry and rub them with olive oil, salt and pepper:

Get a heavy pan good and hot, then place the chicken in:

After a couple minutes flip the chicken, admire its lovely golden crust, then COVER while it finishes cooking. This is the step I didn’t think of, so the chicken tended to start burning before cooking through. This keeps it very, very juicy.

Edited to add better instructions from Mom: “Cook the first side 3-4 minutes until a nice crust forms (don’t move it or it won’t); cover and cook 2-3 minutes. Check for done-ness by touching the meat; soft and squishy means it’s still raw, springy means done, and firm means over-done. All meat continues cooking once it’s off the heat and it needs to rest a few minutes to resorb its juices before you eat it.

Easy! Here is our delicious dinner:

As for the leftovers, we ate some over the weekend, and I used half of the remaining chicken in an absorption pasta with some of the arugula tossed in at the last minute:

The other half I added to pasta with tomato sauce for a very last-minute dinner with a friend from B’s b-school class last night.

Cooking techniques, Food, Guest Post, Recipes

Guest Post: Self-shredding carnitas

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I have a very special treat today: the first-ever guest entry on the blog! (This looks like it may be a bit of a Guest Week, since my mom cooked us a great, simple dinner while she was here visiting, and all I did to “help” was steal beans and take photos.) Bridge faced an Extreme Meat Challenge this weekend, and has a recipe to share plus a cautionary tale about letting someone faceless do your grocery shopping.

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After enjoying Kate’s delectable cider-braised pork with caramelized onions, I decided to give braising a go. We received a gorgeous cast iron enamel pot from E’s dad last spring, but anything we could think to cook in it seemed too heavy until autumn recently crept in. The pot is only four quarts, but in our tiny Manhattan kitchen, it seems like a real beast.

So, last week, I proposed that we get a pork shoulder from FreshDirect. I love FreshDirect for its convenience, but they’re not the most organized. This might explain why I once received an enormous box of Chocolate Peppermint Luna Bars in lieu of the bottle of apple cider vinegar I’d ordered. (I thought about donating the Luna bars but E pointed out that we will need them in case of a zombie attack, so they now reside on the top shelf of our cabinet. This is a true story). I truly believe that there is a Homer Simpson-type at the very end of the packing assembly belt, just throwing random items in willy-nilly before taping up the boxes and sending them off to the trucks.

The other problem with FreshDirect is that you can estimate the size of the meat you’d like, but what they throw in the box is what you get and what you pay for. Which is why I was surprised when E unpacked the boxes in our kitchen and asked me, “Why did you get two?”
“Two what?”
“Two pork shoulders.”
“I didn’t,” I replied, getting up and going into the kitchen. Indeed, they had sent two untrimmed pork shoulders, one weighing seven pounds and one weighing thirteen pounds.

We pondered our options – the smaller shoulder, the one we paid for, was certainly something we could tackle. We decided to make carnitas (more on that in a moment). The larger one, however, was an issue. Given that we’ve recently embarked on a strict budget-adherence mission, it seemed silly to give up free food. But there were several problems in keeping the large shoulder. One, we couldn’t store it whole. It absolutely did not fit in the freezer. It barely fit in the fridge, and there, it was only going to keep for two days or so before we had to do something. Two, we don’t own anything near large enough to cook such a large hunk of meat. It would have to be divided.


(Image from winewebcentral.com)
I think we got most of sections 4 and 5.

I called Kate and she suggested the same, advising me that there would be definitive points of amputation (my word, not hers – this thing was enormous, I swear). She told me to trim it into roasts and chunks (for stew meat, etc) and hopefully I could maneuver the smaller bits into the freezer.

Now, I thought “untrimmed” meant there’d be some excess fat on it and I’d have to do some cute and clever carving, like one does with a heavily marbled steak. I did not realize that “untrimmed” means that there is a hefty layer of skin covering the meat. In fact, I had almost finished trimming the seven pound shoulder when E came in and said, “That’s a lot of skin.”
“That’s fat,” I replied, hacking away with a sushi knife.
E shook his head, and upon closer inspection, I saw pores.

During the trimming process, I’d frequently run into the living room, shake my bloody knife in the air and bemoan the disgusting slab of carcass that had taken over our bright little galley kitchen. [Editor’s Note: The kitchen is not as tiny as some in Manhattan, but the counter space is severely limited. I honestly don’t know how Bridge found space for a 13 pound pork shoulder.] Our cat Giuseppe also took up residence in the kitchen, showing great interest in the meat, his tiny pink-padded paw slooooooooowly reaching toward the mountain of meat before being swatted away. Over. And over. And over.
[EN: Joe also likes to sit on anything Bridge bakes.]

Joe, feigning innocence:

So, the carnitas. I got this recipe from Epicurious and ignored the part about green onion rajas because I decided to make my own salsa.

The recipe is very simple. Take one 4lb pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into two-inch cubes, and put them in a pot. We ended up with more meat than they suggested, but I just threw it all in the pot and poured in a 32 ounce container of organic chicken stock. Add water until the meat is submerged by about a half-inch and bring the whole thing to a boil.

After it boils for a minute or so, lower the heat to a simmer and leave it partially covered for almost two hours, or until all the liquid is absorbed.

Two hours later, I went to check on it and…almost nothing had happened. The pot was still completely full of liquid and chunks of pork. We had some errands to run, so I opted to turn off the burner, cover the pot, and leave it for three hours or so.

Upon returning home, I let it simmer for another two hours and got to work on a simple salsa of plum tomatoes, scallions, chopped cilantro, jalapenos, a little olive oil, lime juice, and salt.

That’s when E got impatient and began poking at the pork chunks with a wooden spoon. I warned him that we had to wait for the liquid to absorb and then it would be time to shred the meat, but when I looked in the pot I was shocked to see that his poking had caused the pork to self-shred into a beautiful mound of white meat, thereby sucking up all the extra liquid. I simply added salt and cracked black pepper, plus a lime’s worth of juice.

With some warm tortillas, the fresh salsa, and a cold Corona, we both agreed it was one of the top ten meals we’d ever made. I think the trick with the pork is to gauge doneness by feel and texture, not by cooking time. The recipe was off by two hours, and the end result was well worth it. Also, minus the trimming debacle, it was insanely easy to make. Not to mention, we have tons of shredded pork left for sandwiches and tacos.

Now, any ideas for ten pounds of trimmed pork shoulder? In the end, we threw away an entire garbage bag of skin and fat, but we are still the very proud owners of two huge roasts, plus a gallon-sized Ziploc of stew meat. Thanks, FreshDirect. I think.

Food, Recipes

Brussels Slaw

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My mom has been telling me for a year to try a raw brussels sprout salad that she’s in love with, and this weekend I finally grabbed the ingredients to make it. Then yesterday I saw an article in the Times dining section about weird-sounding menu items that will likely be really good, and the author mentions this exact salad. She says she had it at Franny’s in Brooklyn–I don’t know where Mom got the recipe but it’s exactly the same.

Regardless, I finally tried the raw brussels sprouts, Mom! And despite a mishap that perhaps damaged things a bit, they were very tasty. (I also want to try the kale salad from that article now.)

The obligatory Brussels Sprout Glamour Shot:

My mom shreds the sprouts on the mandoline, but I am lazy and used the shredding blade in the cuisinart. They get nice and fluffy.

You’re supposed to use chopped and toasted walnuts. I had walnuts in the freezer, I broke them up, I put them in the toaster oven to toast (um, using the oven setting), and then I set about doing a bunch of other things. I came back to the kitchen a few minutes later to be greeted by Ben unloading the dishwasher and acrid smoke seeping out of the toaster oven, which was full of blackened shards of walnut. Sad. Instead I chopped up leftover marcona almonds from the other weekend and used those. They were fine but the texture and slight bitterness of walnuts would have been way better. Lesson: Never abandon toasting nuts!

(hee.)

I dressed the sprouts with lemon juice and the great olive oil B&E brought, salt and pepper, and then tossed in the almonds and a generous handful of grated parmesan.

Stir it all together and voila! (Served with baby sweet potatoes, of which the less said, the better, and leftover sausage.)

I am jealous that Mom (who is visiting right this minute) will get to eat the leftovers (wilted a bit in the microwave, which she says may be even better than when it’s fresh) for lunch today. Yum.

Food, General, Home, Recipes

Quick soup

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So I had two bunches of chard in the fridge, and lots of leftover pork… I decided to make soup to use up at least some of each. (I still have a bunch of chard left.) How gorgeous is rainbow chard? Vegetables make me happy:

I cooked an onion in a bit of olive oil, and then added in the chopped up pork to brown a bit:

Then I rinsed and threw in a can of organic salt-free cannelini beans:

Then I poured in a good splash of dry vermouth, which I use as a substitute for white wine in risotto, etc. After that heated up (and smelled wonderful) I poured in a can and a half of the Swanson’s “Natural Goodness” chicken broth, which is lower sodium and tastes better. I let that cook for a while, then let it sit because Ben was running late. When he got home I heated the soup back up and added in the chopped up chard:

Which filled the pot all the way up and then immediately wilted down to nothing. It always amazes me! I let it cook about 10 minutes, until the chard was tender, seasoned it, and then we ate it with toast. It would have been even better with panini, but we didn’t get around to hauling the panini press out until last night.

—

By the way, I read a good review of a flavored pasta from Trader Joe’s on Apartment Therapy: The Kitchen. It’s a lemon-pepper pappardelle, and I figured it couldn’t hurt to give it a shot. I cooked it and tossed it with the great olive oil that Bridge and Enrico brought us, and Ben grilled a couple sausages we bought from a butcher in the North End. I also chopped up some feta and put that and the sausage on the pasta–not much to look at, but the pasta was really good and this was a nice combo and a SUPER easy meal, since there’s no prep at all.

(Ok, seriously. Must work out the lighting in the kitchen. This is embarrassing.)

The other thing I’ve been up to lately instead of cooking is painting. Our friends Chris and Greta are having a baby boy very soon, and they came to town for a brief visit this weekend. I’d promised to paint something for the nursery for them, so I was working on that last week. Bad photos but I was pleased–Greta wanted a bumble bee and other bugs, in non-pastel colors.

I’m also working on two huge canvases for the living room wall. They are currently in the “wow, that’s hideous” phase; hopefully I can pull them together tonight.

Cooking techniques, Food, Recipes

Inoteca salad and Braised pork

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Dinner on Saturday night got started very, very late–we ended up getting home three hours later than I expected, and then baked cake, etc, so we started the (braised) meat at about the time I thought we’d be eating, and ate at bedtime. I scaled back the plans because we’d been snacking and it was so late, which means I have a lot of chard that I need to do something with this week. Soup tonight, maybe…

To start we had a salad that Bridge and I always split at Inoteca: Romaine and radicchio in a red wine vinaigrette, topped with a mountain of ricotta salata. It’s so, so simple, but the combo is perfect–the sharp radicchio and vinegar are offset by the mound of cheese, which is salty and perfect. I know my mom has been making this salad ever since we went to Inoteca, and this was the second or third time I made it. (Of course, afterwards all I want to eat is Truffled Egg Toast, it’s Pavlovian.) Try this at home!

For dinner I made a variation on an old Gourmet recipe for cider braised pork with caramelized onions. Whole Foods doesn’t carry pork shoulder, on or off the bone, so I made do with boneless pork butt, which….well, it’s big mess to deal with, I’ll tell you that. It was held together with an elastic net, but I had to take that off to score the fat, and then all the lobes of meat were everywhere and did NOT want to be bound back together with kitchen twine. I got flustered and started browning it 1) before sticking all the slices of garlic in (I did a bit of that while it was in the pan, an ouchy process that Bridge watched with trepidation), 2) WITHOUT SEASONING IT. That’s right, I completely forgot to salt and pepper the meat before cooking it. Brilliant. Somehow I don’t have any photos except of the finished process, but basically I browned the meat, pulled it out, caramelized the onions, added the cider in, put the meat back, and braised for a while in the oven. About 45 minutes before it was done (the time was all weird because I had a totally different piece of meat than the recipe called for) I pulled the le creuset out, peered in at my messy, messy chunks of meat, and cut off a little bit to see if it was getting tender. No, not yet. Also, it tasted like a shoe, because it was still in the tough phase, before the braising tenderizing magic happens, and also I HADN’T SALTED OR PEPPERED IT. I added S&P then, and then just really drowned the pieces in the onion sauce mixture (which you reduce a bit) when I served it. I have to say, it ended up tasting good: The Braising Magic kicked in and the meat was super tender, and blanketed in the sweet onions it was flavorful enough. I wasn’t feeling well, though, so I only ate two bites!

Served without chard or noodles, due to the lateness of the hour:

I liked my apples/sherry more than the onions, but I think short ribs might be next on the menu. And the brussels sprouts the Amateur Gourmet blogged a week or two ago, which I’ve been thinking about ever since. My mom is visiting next weekend! Cooking ahoy!