Category Archives: Cooking techniques

Accidental Food Art

Artichokes. I love them, always have. My mom buys these grilled baby artichokes in olive oil from an import store that I could eat straight from the jar for weeks before getting sick of them. I love them streamed, grilled, fried, just the hearts on a sandwiches… But I’d never made myself an artichoke, somehow, and last night I finally did. Ben got home around 9 from his two days in Boston, and I grilled garlic-cheddar sausages, baked potatoes and steamed artichokes so they’d be ready around when he got back.

To steam artichokes: Cut off the top of each artichoke, maybe about the top inch. I used a serrated knife. Use scissors to trim the tips of the other leaves if you want to avoid painful stabby injuries from the spines (artichokes are nettles!), and cut off the stem and a bit of the base so it sits flat.

choke

Put water and a couple cloves of garlic (peeled and cut in half) in the bottom of a pan, under a steamer; bring to a boil and put in the artichokes. Steam for 30-40 minutes, until you can easily pull off a leaf (use tongs, there’s lots of steam in there!). I forgot to keep an eye on the water level and ended up boiling the pan dry, so I’ll be more careful next time. I melted some butter to dip the leaves in and cut the heart up into once the leaves were gone–I think Ben was freaked by the choke, which is all fuzzy and spiny and a little hard to scrape out, but it was so fun to eat an artichoke again!

When I put the potato and artichoke on the plate with the sausage, I realized I’d accidentally made a winking smiley face (excuse the blurry picture):

wink

How funny is that?

Lesson learned: Rice salad

Hmm. Before leaving for the weekend trip, each couple claimed a few meals to take care of while we were there. I did a snack and dinner on Friday after we arrived, and tried to think of things that wouldn’t require a ton of prep work while we were busy opening up the camp (actually a really nice cabin) for the summer. I took sausages and asparagus to grill, and the makings of fancy s’mores for dessert, and made a rice salad at home to take as a side.

Now. My mom has been making this salad my whole life, and it’s always really good. I was afraid I’d run out of time friday morning, though, so I made it most of the way on Thursday, then dressed it on friday, crammed it into a tupperware, and took it to the lake. Something went awry somewhere between dressing it and eating it, though. I don’t know if it was just too smushed into the tupperware, or if I should have left the dressing off completely? The rice, which was perfect the night before when I put it into the fridge (already cold) was a mushy mess, and quite unappetizing. Plus the cucumbers had gone soft, so there was no longer a nice crunchy texture mixed in. The worst part? I’d cooked 2 cups of rice, so I still have enough to feed an army!

In theory this is a great picnic food, though. It doesn’t have anything that goes bad at room temp, it’s tangy and interesting… I should try again, but it involves lots of steps and chopping so I’m not sure I’ll get around to it.

The recipe is based on a verdure, a vegetable topping that can be used on bruschetta or mixed into pasta or rice for a salad. For the Verdure:

Peel, seed and chop four roma tomatoes:

om

(If you don’t know, peeling tomatoes is super-easy if you put them in boiling water for a couple seconds, then plunge into cold water. The skin comes right off.)

Peel, seed and chop 1/2 cucumber (I used almost a whole one):

cuc

Chop a small red onion:

onion

Salt (1 1/4 teaspoon) and let it sit for two hours, so all the juices pull out of the vegetables:

veg

Drain well and combine with 1/4 each chopped flat leaf parsley and basil, 1/8 t dried oregano, scant 1/8 t red pepper flakes:

ing

To use as a bruschetta topping, add 1 1/2 T olive oil, salt and pepper to taste. To use as a salad:

Cook rice or pasta and drain/dry well. (This was where I ran into trouble.) Cut up a handful each of cornichons (tiny pickles, yum) and capers:

corn

Smash a handful of black olives to loosen from pits, then chop (this failed completely for me because I was using green olives, which will not release from their pits!).

Combine:

salad

salad2

Make a dressing–1/2 cup olive oil, 3 tablespoons lemon juice–and combine with salad.

Here’s my salad post-dressing on friday morning (much different colors in sun instead of lights!); you can see it getting sticky:

salad3

Upon arrival at the camp…GAH, I MADE A (non-)JELLO MOLD!

mold

Help! I pulled that monstrosity apart with a fork, but the damage was done and the texture was shot:

salad bowl

Luckily the rest of the meal was pretty tasty… The asparagus was an annoying combo of very thick and very thin, but tasted good:

aspa

If you haven’t tried that, do: toss the asparagus with olive oil, salt and pepper, and grill until tender. Takes about 10 minutes but keep a close eye on it!

Semi-vegetarian

We’re counting down now–the last week of classes is almost over; graduation is in less than three weeks, and we will be moving in about a month. We’re trying to squeeze in some last dinners with all the people we’ve meant to invite over all year, and last Thursday we had Louisa (from Scotland) and Alex (from NZ) and Matt (who we have over all the time!) over. Matt’s a vegetarian (that trouble-maker) but flexible about things like chicken stock, so I always end up making him risotto.

To start I adapted a salad I’d seen in a magazine this month (not sure which one), with apples, pancetta and almonds. The dressing wasn’t great–much sweeter than my usual dressing, and with the apples and almonds I didn’t think it had enough bite. I love pancetta or bacon in salads, though, and it was fun to figure out how to cut matchsticks of apple:

apple match

I sliced off a bit of a side, then cut slices down to the core and cut the slices into matchsticks. Easy as pie and they look great. Here’s the finished salad:

salad

Last week the first local asparagus arrived at the Coop; a perfect risotto ingredient and fun spring event. The bunch had some very thin stalks as well as lots of fatter ones (which I prefer), so I had to add it in at three different points. My mom taught me to add the tips towards the end since they cook faster. I added the fat stalk pieces, then the big ends in with the skinny stalk pieces, then the little tips as garnish at the end.

aspar

By the way, does anyone else sort of hate the tips of asparagus? I love love love the stalks but have never liked the tips nearly as much.

risotto

Hmm, could have been a little brothier and creamier.

For dessert I used another magazine recipe, this one from Bon Appetit. Strawberries are looking gorgeous right now, so I made chocolate strawberry shortcakes, with a chocolate biscuit instead of plain. Easy recipe, though I wasn’t blown away—I prefer regular shortcakes or angel food cake.

The dough was made with whipped cream:
biscuit ingred

It’s basically sand when you dump it out to knead, and it did pull together, though it took longer than I think it was supposed to. (Sadly I forgot to take a photo of the dough.)

biscuit mix

You can see the ones that were made from the second or third time pushing the dough together—they split open.

bisc baked

Pretty, pretty berries (they ended up macerating with powdered sugar and orange juice; I didn’t add grand marnier, per the recipe, because I didn’t have any.):

straw

And a mediocre pic of the finished dessert (need. better. lighting.):

dessert

The part of this recipe that I will definitely recreate is the cream. It was half a cup of whipping cream with half a cup of sour cream and a bit of powdered sugar. The sour cream added body and tang and made it much more interesting than straight whipped cream. Yum!

Lydia’s Pasta Salad

Another weekend, another barbecue. This time some friends from Ben’s first study group came over for burgers in the late afternoon. Sick of cooking potatoes, I made the pasta salad that I first fell in love with at my bridal shower last summer. Ben’s mom’s best friend (and our good friend too!) Lydia makes this supremely simple and delicious pasta salad; we were all begging for instructions after we tried it. Ben called and got the directions on Saturday, and it’s as easy as can be:

Lydia’s Pasta Salad
While your pasta water is boiling, cut up ripe tomatoes and put them in a big bowl with olive oil and salt. (I used cherry and grape tomatoes, about two pints, quartered (they MUST be cut up), with maybe a quarter cup (plus a little) of oil and a bunch of salt.) Let the tomatoes start releasing their juice.
Cut up about a pound of firm mozzarella (though I want to give fresh another shot, I think the flavor would be better even if it did melt all over the place) into small bites and put it in with the tomatoes. [SEE EDIT, below.]

Cook a pound of pasta (Lydia uses penne), drain it, and toss it in with the tomatoes and cheese while it’s still hot.
Add torn up basil and lots of salt and pepper. Keep tasting it; it’s a bit hard to season this enough but you also don’t want to go overboard.

Obviously with a salad this simple, your ingredients need to be top-notch. I used grape/cherry tomatoes because I’ve had better luck finding tasty and sweet ones in the off season. And the cheese I used was so-so. But it’s still really easy and really popular. We went through about 5/6 of this huge bowl!

EDITED 5/21

Per Mom’s question in the comments, I made this again for a dinner party Friday night and used little bocconcini (small balls of fresh mozzarella), cut into quarters. The salad was WAY better–definitely use fresh mozzarella. I cut it small so that if it did melt when I added the pasta I wouldn’t have any enormous blobs of cheese, but it stayed fairly intact. We ate leftovers in the car on the way to Boston on Saturday; this is great picnic food!

Thinking green

Look at the amazing light that streams through the side of our house (well, the windows on the side–we do have walls) in the late afternoon:

favas

I sat in a pool of that light to shuck my fava beans in preparation for dinner, and was delighted as always by their color and the fuzzy insides of the pods and the sleek little jackets on the beans:

shucked

And after I blanched them (two minutes in salted boiling water, then into a cold bath) and peeled them, they were even brighter:

green

Sadly I didn’t know quite what to do with them. I had the halibut and asparagus, as I said before…I envisioned a scattered shower of the favas over the fish, with the asparagus on the side, but didn’t know how to prepare the beans. I decided to just sauté them with a little olive oil and lemon zest, and see what happened.

(BTW, this is written from the US Airways (ugh) terminal at LaGuardia, where I am waiting and waiting for delayed and canceled flights back up north. I just ate a shameful fast food dinner, lest you think I’m actually healthy and home-cookish all the time.)
pan

What happened was that they got a little mushy (even after mere seconds) an stopped being quite so green. Oops. I drenched them in lemon juice (more de-greening) and let them sit while I did everything else.

I put some more lemon zest on the halibut, which I had clumsily divided into two servings.

ingred

The asparagus I tossed with lots of oil, salt and pepper, and grilled for about 8 minutes, until it was tender (a little too tender, for the skinny ones! It was a very irregular batch of asparagus) and nicely charred. Mmmm.

aspar

We ate that room temperature, since I was waiting for Ben to get back from a night class, and had everything except the fish ready to go when he got home. I was scared to cook fish, which I’ve never done before. I put some olive oil, salt and pepper on the flesh side of the fish, and started it on the grill with that side down. I cooked it about 5 minutes face down, then put it skin-side down for another…4 or 5 minutes? It was just barely cooked; I should have left it another minute, at least. Still, not horrible for a first try!

dinner

Eaten on the porch by candlelight, it was a very fresh and springy dinner. I need to work on my fish technique, and next time I want to make a fava purée. So green!

Barbecuing

For the second night feeding the boys, we grilled burgers and sausage and ate outside. We invited Chris and Ann over to talk marketing with the college kids, and then Brian and Liz came over to play catch and we asked them to stay, too. All 8 of us squeezed around the table on the porch, which gave it a fun party feeling. It was a little chilly to be eating outside but I don’t think any of us noticed, in part because Ann, who is always cold, was sitting by the open window to the kitchen, where I accidentally left the oven on at 480 degrees long after taking the potatoes out…

Liz mixed up some more wonder concoctions in the freezer–a sort of strawberry margarita improvisation–and the guys drank a lot of beer. We grilled 14 1/4 pound hamburgers and 10 sausages and every single one was eaten. I also made a huge salad and some oven fries, and Ann brought a delicious cake from King Arthur.

The oven fries were an experiment, and worked out remarkably well. I usually parboil potatoes that I’m trying to make crispy in the oven, and the few times I’ve skipped that I’ve regretted it (see the chicken dinner back in December where the potatoes took an extra 45 minutes to cook). But I forged ahead, cut 8 big bakers into wedges, rubbed them around in oil, salt and pepper, then baked them at 450 (later cranking it to 480) for about….45 minutes?

wedges

When I pulled them out to test them a lot of the wedges were sticking; they hadn’t crisped up enough to release from the pans. That was when I cranked the heat up. Basically just keep baking them until they release from the pan without too much trouble! I dusted them with some truffle salt (another product sample from my magazine days) before serving.

fries

Dinner—the best shot I could get in the midst of the utter chaos (fun chaos) at the table:

burger

dinner

Six+ lb. lasagna: A photo tutorial

Ben’s “little” brother (6’6″) and one of his friends came to visit this weekend, and since I knew I would be feeding two young guys who can eat impressively large quantities at a sitting, I planned big, food-wise. For dinner when they got up here Friday night I made a meat lasagna, using the Cook’s Illustrated recipe I cooked once last fall. The ingredients total more than six pounds, so I figured it would do the trick.

ingred

Hearty Meat Lasagna – New Best Recipes (Cook’s Illustrated)
(As adapted by Kate’s Mom)

Notes from Mom: “This is a production but easy to do. It is important to get the mix of meats. I get it fresh ground at Long’s and ask Mike to make the pork fatty because veal and beef are lean.

Unless I am doing it for a party and need the whole recipe, I assemble it in three tin foil square pans and freeze the other two.”

Method

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Tomato-Meat Sauce

1 T olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped fine
6 medium cloves garlic, minced
1 lb. meat loaf mix or .33 lb each ground beef chuck, ground veal, & ground pork
.5 t. salt
.5 t. black pepper
.25 C heavy cream
1 (28 oz) can pureed tomatoes
1 (28 oz) can diced tomatoes, drained

sauce

2. Sauce: Heat oil in a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering, but not smoking, about 2 minutes.
a. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not brown, about 2 minutes.
b. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
c. Increase heat to medium-high and add the ground meats, salt, and pepper; cook, breaking the meat into small pieces until the meat loses its raw color but has not browned, about 4 minutes.

sauce2

d. Add the cream and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid evaporates and only the fat remains, about 4 minutes.
e. Add the pureed and drained diced tomatoes, and bring to a simmer; reduce the heat to low and simmer slowly until the flavors are blended, about 3 minutes – and only 3 minutes; set the sauce aside. (Note from Kate: You’re leaving the sauce wet, not cooking it down, because you need enough liquid to cook the no-boil noodles.)

sauce3

Ricotta, Mozzarella & Pasta Layers
15 oz whole-milk ricotta, 1.75 C
2.5 oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated, 1.25 C (divided)
(optional per Beth: .5 t. red pepper flakes & .25 t. nutmeg)
.5 C fresh basil, chopped
1 large egg, lightly beaten
.5 t. salt
.5 t. black pepper

ingred2

12 no-boil lasagna noodles
1 lb whole-milk mozzarella, shredded, 4 C

ready

3. Layers:
a. Mix ricotta, 1 C of the Parmesan, basil, egg, salt, and pepper (and optional red pepper flakes and nutmeg) in a medium bowl with a fork until well combined and creamy; set aside.

creamed

b. Smear the bottom of a 13 x 9” baking dish with .25 C of the meat sauce.
(Note: Here’s Mom’s adaptation, and a brilliant one it is. Instead of trying to dab the ricotta onto noodles in the pan, lifting them up and displacing them with your spoon, she lays them out like playing cards and uses a spatula to spread the mixture on.)
c. Lay out 9 of the noodles and smear equally with the ricotta mixture.

cards

d. Place 3 of the coated noodles in the dish to create the first layer.

noodles

e. Sprinkle the layer with 1 C mozzarella.
f. Spoon 1.5 C meat sauce evenly over cheese.

layer

g. Repeat layering of coated noodles, mozzarella, and sauce over the noodles two more times.
h. Place the remaining three noodles on top of the sauce, spread with remaining sauce, sprinkle with the remaining 1 C mozzarella, then with the remaining .25 C Parmesan.

lasagna
side

i. Lightly spray a large sheet of foil with nonstick cooking spray and cover the lasagna.
j. Bake 15 minutes; remove foil.
k. Return lasagna to oven and bake until the cheese is spotty brown and the sauce is bubbling, about 25 minutes longer.
l. Cool the lasagna about 10 minutes; cut into pieces and serve.

lasagan cooked

Let me tell you, this is a delicious lasagna. Each boy had two of those huge pieces that night; Ben and I each had half a piece and split the other piece for lunch the next day. See the pretty layers in the cold slice:

crossection

I served it with salad and a loaf of store-bought garlic bread. That is a classic combo for a reason!

Playing catch up

A few recent meals before I continue with the Argentina travelogue…

Yet another absorption pasta

First of all, I don’t usually post my absorption pastas at this point–it has become a favorite midweek meal, usually involving broccoli and sausage, but a recent one was so easy and tasty that I thought I’d toss it in the ring. I sautéed a couple chopped up slices of pancetta until nice and crispy, put them aside, sautéed a sliced up summer squash for a few minutes, set *that* aside, then cooked the pasta and added the squash and most of the pancetta back in towards the end. I chopped up some really firm feta and sprinkled it on top, then finished with the rest of the pancetta, for crunch. 20 minutes, completely delicious, and rather pretty, too! (This is my contribution to the Everything Yellow design trend currently sweeping the internet.)

pasta

Cured pork chops, Goin style

My brother brought his new girlfriend over for dinner a couple weeks ago, and I made a real dinner for them instead of presenting poor Tom with whatever I happened to be cooking that night. I made the cured pork chops from Sunday Suppers at Lucques, starting the day before by making the brine (juniper and allspice berries, fennel seed, fresh fennel, onion, carrot, dried pepper, thyme…) and soaking the chops for 24 hours.

brine

chops in brine

That left the chops really fat and juicy with brine–I wish I had weighed them before and after; next time I’ll do that to see how much they suck in. See how shiny and plump they are?

chops

To start the meal we had another Goin suggestion, roasted asparagus with prosciutto and mustard crème fraîche. I should have grilled the asparagus (as she suggests), but we were low on propane so I used the oven. It could have used the extra shot of flavor from the grill.

aspar

I boiled a million marble-sized new potatoes and buttered them, and sautéed spinach as a bed for the chops. Ben grilled the chops to perfection—he has gotten so good on the grill! The meat was juicy and flavorful; I will definitely do this again. Compared to Goin’s other recipes, the brine is really simple.

chop dinner

I made rhubarb compote (again, from Goin) for dessert, to serve with ice cream. Sigh… The rhubarb at the Coop was uninspiring; I should have scrapped it. But I forged ahead, making a caramel with a vanilla bean, then cooking the rhubarb in it, etc. It turned out ok but not great, since the flavor of the rhubarb was not great to start with. Pretty, though:

compote

I adore rhubarb and was looking forward to eating a lot of it this year; I don’t know why I haven’t been able to get any. Dessert plans for a dinner tonight were shot down, too—a rhubarb crisp had to give way to brownies due to a supply problem!

Simple sausage dinner
Mmmm, I really am a sucker for the simplest food. I finally made the roasted shredded brussels sprouts that we’d eaten at our friend Greta’s house months ago. I crushed some garlic and let it sit in olive oil while I ran the cleaned sprouts through the cuisinart (using the shredding blade), then when it was almost time to eat I tossed the sprouts in the oil, spread them out on a baking sheet, and baked them at around 400 degrees until they got crispy. You have to power through the moment when you think you’ve killed them and want to pull them out: Before getting crispy they wilt a bit, which is scary.

I made an emergency box of couscous, and Ben grilled sausages. All together it was a great combo of flavors and textures, and a very satisfying weeknight dinner.

sausage dinner

No-Knead Bread, months late.

Back in November I was, of course, intrigued by Bittman’s article about No-Knead Bread—the entire internet seemed to be obsessed, too, and everyone was trying it and writing about it. I was concerned about the plastic Le Creuset handle in the hot oven, though, and didn’t get around to trying it until around Valentine’s day. (Pictures of my first batch, along with the steak, orzo, broccoli and wilted spinach salad we had for dinner that night, followed by fallen chocolate cakes, were lost in a camera memory card disaster.) I was tipped off to the existence of stainless steel knobs for my dutch oven on Not Martha, and I ordered one right away. Before and after:

creuset-handle.jpg creuset-stainless-handle.jpg

So handsome! Incidentally, you could just use a stainless cabinet knob from a hardware store, but I liked the idea of having the same broader handle to grab onto, since I’m a klutz. That’s also why I didn’t just plug the hole from the knob with tinfoil and slide the lid on and off; I would have gotten 3rd degree burns or a broken toe or both.

Anyway, I’ve made the bread several times since. The first batch I made using the directions Bittman gave in the printed recipe, which calls for 1 5/8 cups of water. In the video that accompanied it he said 1.5 cups. The waterier batch never rose and stayed VERY wet and sticky. I got a small loaf but it still tasted and looked good. Using 1.5 cups of water gave me much bigger and easier to handle loaves.

The dough after 18 hours of sitting, after the second rise, and after being uncovered in the oven (30 minutes into baking):

no-knead-dough.jpg no-knead-risen.jpg no-knead-oven.jpg

Everyone in the world has already commented on how good this bread is, considering how simple it is to make. All it takes is time, and a loaf costs about 55 cents, while looking and acting like good bread from a bakery. The first day it is particularly irresistible; I like it buttered (salted butter) and sprinkled with sugar. Ben is nuts about it for sandwiches. Considering that this was the second time I’d ever made bread, I was pretty damn impressed.

no-knead-loaf.jpg no-knead-sliced.jpg

My friend Laura gave us a bunch of awesome cookbooks as a wedding present, including The Bread Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum. Now that I have the mixer (and I also got a scale this weekend) I want to experiment with a ton of the recipes in that.

An apple a day…

I still had half of a ham steak in the freezer, so I pan-fried it for dinner one night last week, and served it with roasted new potatoes and homemade apple sauce. If you’ve never made applesauce, please please give it a try next time you want some: it is SO EASY, especially if you have an immersion blender, that once you’ve tried it you will never crack a jar of Mott’s again. My mom would be the best person to give a serious recipe/instructions for people who want to actually can sauce, but I just make a cheater’s version when I want a little bit to go with pork chops, etc.

Peel and core a few apples–flavorful, not-too-tart ones like Fuji are best, and it’s nice to mix a few types together. For two of us, I used three apples, two Fuji and one Gala, and ended up with a nice bowl of leftovers. Cut up the apples and throw them in a small saucepan with a bit of water–maybe an inch? Bring the water to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cover; cook the apples until they are quite soft.
applesauce-apples.jpg

Then pull out your immersion blender and puree the apples. Taste and see if they need sugar–if you’re using Gala, Fuji, etc, you probably won’t. Add cinnamon to taste.
applesauce.jpg

That’s it! Easy easy easy; the hardest part is peeling the apples. (Cooking the apples with their peels/cores and running the result through a foodmill is the traditional way, and it makes more flavorful sauce. But for a quick weeknight side dish, this way is simpler. Especially since I don’t have a foodmill.)

The next day I ate the leftover applesauce with Nancy’s yogurt, made right in my hometown and only recently available on the East Coast. I wish I had a digital copy of the photos of me on my first birthday, being fed yogurt and applesauce by my aunt Suzanne. My mom says I used to put away the same size bowl of it that my dad did!
Healthy and delicious:
applesauce-and-yogurt.jpg